Nicole Phelps for Vogue on the fall 2017 Lemaire show:

“For Fall the designers didn’t deviate from their sensual/intellectual DNA, but in keeping with a season in which tailoring is playing such a key role, they did put an extra emphasis on suiting. It came in decidedly noncorporate boxy wide wale corduroy, and, for a little more “executive realness,” a streamlined steely gray sans buttons or hardware of any kind. But it’s the slightly less arch clothes that will hold appeal for the insiders who come to do some personal shopping while they work: the long-sleeved dresses with buttons that curved ever so slightly at the midriff, creating a neat nipped waist; a swaggering long-sleeved button-down belted into a pair of high-waist men’s trousers; the shiny coated cotton trench alternative that buttoned at the shoulders. The emphasis on large canvas totes, leather shoulder bags, and cross-body styles played into our anti–It bag moment.”